Wednesday, May 25, 2011

[kl-bogel] Unknown Pakistan

We offer you a report in three parts of a trip to Pakistan by LJ user SE-Boy : I returned from Pakistan a little earlier than expected. On this trip: 1. Was partially performed one of the most difficult, as it turned out tracks in Pakistan. 2. As a consequence, was undermined by the (later corrected) health, because of what actually had to cut the route. 3. Failed to understand that Pakistan - a country that has nothing to do with the fact that we show in the news. Everything is much better and more interesting. 4. Able to meet and make friends with a man put an end to one of the biggest mountaineering mystery of the XX century. 5. Able to walk in the shadow of one of the most mysterious and inaccessible eight thousand of the world. This mountain of fate, she is Gore-killer, she's naked mountain, it is also the King of Mountains. In the world most known the last two titles.

(48 photos)

Пакистан 1
1. Nanga Parbat (Naked Mountain), it also Diamir (King of Mountains). Apical part of the slope Rupalskogo

Warm day in July I was brought into the shop unimportant tissues in Moscow. Just fell down a trip to Tibet, and I began to ponder option with Pakistan - have been written and sent the first letter, but still hung in the air, there is no certainty, no hope. The store walls were panels with rolled up cloth of various colors and motley, ragged and fly-bitten walls here and there decorated with a panel - embroidery and beadwork is so unpretentious that it is better to bare wall. It was boring and stuffy. Suddenly, among the abundance of cheap popular "Evenings on a Farm near Dikanka" and "Kryvonos and locomotive fists driven into the collective farm" catch sight of a strange figure in the form of buildings and Latin inscription Baltit fort. Damn! The trip will! It is not known how, in the outskirts of Moscow in the fabric store was the image Baltic fort, located in the Hunza in northern Pakistan, but these signs, I believe, because so far they have always worked well.

*** More than just happy that Pakistan has in mind its northern part, where three great mountain range - the Himalayas, Karakoram and Hindu Kush, is quite different from the country, what we represent his comrades, making the news. Of course, not everything is simple - the country's many problems, it is crowded and people are mired in poverty. Great difficulty in education, employment, sanitation and medical aid. A separate question radicalization and Islamization. Unsurprisingly, many of these ills is almost everywhere. And given the difficulties over the country have to go ...

2. Pakistani girl is 11 years on the back of his younger brother, but for some reason no one talks about the beautiful people, which many among Pakistanis, and no one talks about the friendly inhabitants of the mountains that are ready for guests at all ("my house - your house - it is an iron rule in the mountainous Pakistan), silent and stunningly beautiful landscapes and unspoilt nature. I hope this situation will correct the contrary those who make the world a fright from Pakistan.

3. Trucks and buses - a work of art and the pride of every driver, of course, I can not speak "for all of Odessa, that is for all of Pakistan because it was only in its northern part. But the experience only talks about one thing - you should definitely come back here, and want as quickly as possible.

4. Astor River valley (elevation 3500 feet) It was found in the process, a circular track around the Nanga Parbat is one of the toughest in the country. The main difficulty is the lack of villages in one part of the route and pass Mazeno (5399 meters), from which descend because of the steepness and fresh snow had to, insuring an ice ax and rope, which was the first time in my practice, because I am not a climber.

5. Ksenia on a stone ledge above the glacier. Behind the peak Shaigiri In addition, this track is enough self-contained, with a need to carry food, gas, tents and so on. And if not for our guide and porters, high altitude, as if I know - live from the pass we descended Ksyusha not be. Not counting the sophisticated approaches on both sides of the pass on the glacier (crack, no trails per se), it is necessary not only good knowledge of the terrain and climbing skills, wherewith our accompanying possessed in full measure, but also credibility among the population of local villages. Such authority had our guide - know him, I think, without exception, local residents within a radius of hundreds of kilometers from Nanga Parbat. Without these people can quickly become poor and the dead, and, as usual, at the same time.

6. The remains of a mountain goat at an altitude of approximately 4500 meters. There are almost no decomposition, this mummy.

7. Your humble servant, not far from the pass (elevation approximately 5200 meters). Behind these mountains begins Free Kashmir.

8. Look to the right, there is mount-killer ... First things first became clear that the ordinary Soviet citizen to go to Pakistan is by invitation only, other options exist. From neighboring countries like as you can simply cross the border, but the prospect of a trip to China, Afghanistan, Iran or India to cross Pakistan's land borders are not enticed. The second problem was the fact that the Pakistani travel agency specializing in mountain routes, showed unanimous narrow-mindedness and insanity in the part of the postulate "to go to meet the customer". Pakistan attends few tourists, many of them are either climbers who need good conditions at the bottom, as their main work starts from a height of 4-5 km, or Europeans, requiring a certain level of comfort. Apparently, it has imposed on local agencies imprint in the form of packaged tours, which are all included and the price of which is simply astronomical. Distributed on a number of agencies are standard letters ("around the Nanga Parbat track for two people, please send a distribution list of prices and conditions") have no less stereotypical responses. Price unanimously in all cases exceeds the limit for 2300 dollars per person, sometimes reaching up to 3 thousand. Attempts to play a fall lead to nowhere, the feeling that, as in Nepal, there is a certain scheme, which all prefer to stick with it. Only in Nepal can come and solve all questions personally, here without an invitation is not suneshsya. Deceive people is not good (we could probably psevdosoglasitsya in all conditions, and then, on arrival in the country to send the agency away), therefore, had to enter into an unequal battle corresponded with all agencies at once, explaining that the track I do not want to FIG Tables , chairs, shower, portable toilet and things like that, and are only interested in guide and porter for a meal, as part of the track runs out in the country. His 20-plus pounds in their backpacks I'm able to carry himself. Europeans do not quite understand. What is the meaning to go to the track which is all down to what you can probably hire a palanquin, in which you suffer? And you ruin it and you'll feel the Crown Prince ...

9. Penetrate the defense was only in the case of one agency, the manager is named Ali is interested in clients and was not only pleasant to communicate, but also an absolutely sane man. In addition, from time to time he participated in track. After a couple of letters to the tour cost per person fell to the first two thousand, and then to 1560 dollars on a nose that was already acceptable. Of course, the price could knock down and still, but in this case worth to be safe. And then suddenly it turned to that instead of the normal machinery to the site will get something like ...

10. Bus on the Karakorum Highway. At the bottom of the river Indus We eventually agreed on the amount of 1560. These included: transfer from airport to hotel upon arrival and back (Etihad Airways flies to Islamabad, two in the morning, departure to Moscow, about four o'clock in the morning), the actual hotel in Islamabad - two nights with breakfast (my room was quite expensive, but I missed it from view, solving a lot of other issues), two local flights (round-trip) and then a jeep on mountain roads to the top of the track or in the case of bad weather, transfer of land and payment of the three porters and a guide throughout the itinerary, their food and equipment, food for us; warranty on the work of porters and a guide and no problems with them. Guide, which we come is the best in the region and a very authoritative person. He thoroughly knows the terrain in the area of ​​Kashmir Himalayas and the number of routes in the Karakoram, Chitral, Dir and Swat valleys. It also solves all the problems in ways ranging from the banal advice, ending the problems of finding and hiring porters, negotiations with local, trade, the purchase of any items and equipment (in the mountains of British know very few people, and Urdu, I somehow never got around to learn :) ), Etc. etc. Porters took three: A guide does not bear weight, it carries luggage porter, porter the other two have two double tents, food for all the necessary utensils, including a container with gas (more than 4 thousand no firewood) and their belongings. Our backpacks, kitchen utensils and a tent we carried ourselves. The only relief - your sleeping, I shake off one of the porters. In general, the work of Ali and his agency should assess the "excellent". A guide and porters just alpine gold men, such is rarely seen. Friendship with them, I cherish. There were some caveats, and small problems of institutional design, due to my ignorance of local circumstances, but it all proved decisive. During a second visit to these problems, of course, not arise. Write about it here will not - already so large text turned out, I can tell if someone decide to go.

Now it is the technical part

The agency will send the invitation and duplicates it to the Embassy of Pakistan in Russia by fax. In the absence of such a double at the embassy nobody to talk to you will not be at all. Wanted: a completed application for a visa, and 3 (if memory serves) photos, translated into English and notarized certificate of salary, a passport, prior to the expiration of which more than six months, bought tickets (they have, however, do not ask). Queue at the embassy is not at all. A visa is issued within five working days, costs about $ 100, unless I am mistaken (since they took me more with less Ksyusha why - I do not know) and it looks like this.

11. There is reason to think - the visa number 467 for 9 months ...

12. Go to reporters at the embassy are not very good, long muryzhat questions like "why so why, so on any occasion ..." and looked upon with suspicion ... As of porters, no Humpty Dumpty, as in Nepal. Prices for the work of porters are fixed by the government.

13. Roadside eatery Islamabad impression of wide streets, proper planning, good-quality buildings. Solid city, where you can take some time, one feels that it is specially built as the capital, this is true, it is somewhat artificial. Previously, the capital was Karachi, Rawalpindi and then, but now the latter sort of merged with Pakistan in a single unit, although the differences are evident - Rawalpindi much noisier, dirtier and densely populated, is allowed to move cartage, here are the offices of many companies.

14. In Rawalpindi, so you can ride in Islamabad Islamabad And there is similar to Moscow 60-ies: small cars for such a wide streets, green, plenty of room. Many hotels, government buildings, diplomatic quarter, respectable offices.

15. Local bus. People sometimes even at the sides hanging in the morning is a debate in the local hypermarket Metro. During our correspondence, Ali sent a list of products, which he usually buys for expeditions before their arrival in order to save time. More than half the names I did not understand - the specific names that the Europeans or climbers, perhaps obvious, but for us a solid dark wood. Therefore agreed that we will go to buy food together. After discussing the menu for the whole track, recruit with a full cart Ksyusha eatables, ranging from Chinese noodles and the local fast food, ending with nuts, dry and canned fruit and a jar of honey, however, Ali, looking at the range, says one word: "little" . Strange, because we have a meal at the rate of breakfast-lunch-dinner, but he knows better ... Ksyusha protests against the purchase of additional food, and so insistent that Ali, observing political correctness, I softly whispered: "Let's take her to the hotel and go again themselves, otherwise you'll die on top of hunger. " We laugh together, yet still buy more products. - Ali, but where we will pack it all? Judging by the weight for food will need a separate carrier. - I'll give you the drum. - Drums? - No, the plastic barrel with a lockable lid. This is an ideal container for food and carry it comfortably.

16. Products and barrel-drum in a hotel room. The bag has a lot of products drum, by the way, lived up to its name. Subsequently, by an unfortunate accident, he flew away from the pass with all our grub. This mournful booming thunder and flying at me furiously spinning the barrel I'll remember forever - rasshvyryav products for several hundred meters down the slope, the drum flew up to the glacier and disappeared forever in one of the cracks. I remember, at this point it was a pity jar of condensed milk, which we have specially brought to mark the passage through the pass ... But I somehow ran ahead ... Back at the hotel, packed foods in a barrel. Is full of the eyeballs. And this is only our food, porters, in addition, his bear. Plus still have to buy fresh fruit and vegetables, because on one concentrates not get very far. Ali advises purchased closer to the beginning of the route - in towns and villages that we pass on the road.

17. However, something I ran ahead ... Back at the hotel, packed foods in a barrel. Is full of the eyeballs. And this is only our food, porters, in addition, his bear. Plus still have to buy fresh fruit and vegetables, because on one concentrates not get very far. Ali advises purchased closer to the beginning of the route - in towns and villages that we pass on the road.

18. A fragment of one of the cards. Green denotes the route traversed At first glance it seems that the area is strongly populated and the terms of a continuous civilization - the names already on each other creeps. I do not know whether to be glad or sad, because wanted something more wild. However, the first impression is erroneous. According to these wild places will give a hundred points ahead Nepalese popular tracks, and the recent floods, mudslides and landslides have finally made some desert areas of northern Pakistan and difficult. Two centimeters on the map in almost any direction from the Karakorum Highway (the thickest road along the Indus, is highlighted in red), and the people in villages do not have a clue about what kind of education, sanitation and hygiene, there is no light, gas, water, homes in the highland villages have in common with these houses, only the name, it is often built of stone walls with a roof, not even bonded with a solution.

19. Disguising itself is almost perfect Karakoram Highway - the usual two, and often polutoraryadka, serpentine mountain, in the best years for which it was possible to somehow pass, but now it is appropriate to the term "creep" - floods and landslides have killed the road completely. However, all this will be known only later, and now have time to briefly look at government buildings, one of the largest mosques in the world in a suburb of Islamabad and drive to get acquainted with our guide.

20. Faisal Mosque by 300 thousand worshipers. Covers an area of ​​19 hectares mosque named after the slain Saudi King Faisal Bin Abdul Aziz Al-Saud. He invited her to build and finance their construction, which at current prices, at a cost of $ 120 million. It also houses the International Islamic University and the mausoleum of one of the most notorious dictators of Pakistan, which we come.

21. The complex of government buildings. Photographed on the move beyond these concrete blocks and barbed wire can not pass, and stop here is prohibited. After the explosion, Mariott hotel, located close to the left, if you look at the photo, the protection of government buildings and diplomatic quarter significantly strengthened. Firstly, the whole area is well sweep visible - you can not hide. Secondly, to get, for example, at any embassy, ​​you must come to a special point where obyschut from head to toe, they take away all things, and transplanted into a special bus. Only a coach may enter the dipkvartala, any other transport, apparently shot without warning. Unfortunately, the photographs of Islamabad is very small - on the arrival time was not, and we thought on the way back to town to dedicate the day like to buy souvenirs. But fate decreed otherwise, and Islamabad, we have not seen ...

*** Discovering guide went in the afternoon. When he emerged to meet the car from a roadside building in the dark it seemed that Ali decided to pass us some kind of Mujahideen - to shape the figure could be seen only that the guide - usher in a Pakistani clothes and a beard. Imagination dorisovyvalo shoulder Kalashnikov rifle, but fortunately it was not. "Perhaps, under the protection of this guide we just never shot, but what is the guarantee that he does not shoot us? After all, we go-we go to Kashmir and there will be a few dozen kilometers from the "control zone" - the disputed border with India. " To think out these ideas as follows failed - we got out of the car and went to meet a man with whom had to share a table and shelter to more than one day. Alarms were in vain. Perhaps, for all time to communicate with guides, I never met a more experienced person, a more balanced and more friendly. Samandar Khan, in addition, also very well known - he and his family found the remains of the climber Guenther Messner, putting an end to the sensational stories, which affected the fates of many people. These events will be discussed in a separate account, since this topic was not written one book, precisely because of this history, including I was in Pakistan.

22. Samandar Khan, and your humble servant.

*** Sometimes I wonder what the state are in the world, and wonder. Island, the mainland, state-of the city ... just as bizarre in form and substance, it seems, is obtained with the countries that were formed not in the course of history, but because the human will (although this is also the story). Typically, this former colony, and Pakistan - one of the most curious formations. Pakistan - an artificially created country for Muslims with an artificial name. It was thought up a few people, but actually created one. This country, two of which formerly defended by more than 1600 km apart. It is a country where half of its history was ruled by military dictators. This country still has no clear boundaries and threatens to fall apart because of internal problems. This is a country in which there is a state within a state. This is a country that participated in the creation of the Taliban and now struggling with it. Finally, it is the world's only Muslim country that possesses nuclear weapons.

23. A trip to Kashmir to Nanga Parbat started with the exchange. The output in Islamabad and Rawalpindi, which locals call simply "Pindi", banks are closed, is only a number of heat exchangers, and then only need to know the place. Our exchanger was in the back of the bank, in the yard, well, a residential building. At the entrance to the bank four - security guards. Two of them were in uniform and carrying automatic weapons, but the other two I did not like. They were dressed in traditional Pakistani clothes once white, in the hands of the pump guns, and people are so tense that seems to shoot will not hesitate - just give a reason. Yes, and guns, according to abrasions, dents or pock-marked dulam, in fact there were more than once. I do not even dare to get the camera, Ksenia is trying to make a soap box out of the car frame, but nothing happened.

24. Do not guard the bank, but face similar. Filmed in a suburb of Islamabad. Since then, a thorn stuck in my head the idea of ​​what has brought us to the same ass. This idea is not to leave the head all the time her head, stay in Pakistan. Later in the imagination of the country as it was divided into two parts - the plain and mountain. In the second case, almost no problems have arisen, but in the first ... These feelings are hard to describe. First and foremost, when released into the medium-sized city of Pakistan (with rare exceptions) begins to experience psychological discomfort - in the streets walking among men, and in the same clothes. Not that I generally can not live without women, but when in a city with a population of 140,000 per day catches 4.3 women, and then wrapped up and shook it strange. In this case, the people are - God does not forbid trade, and the streets of small towns often represent a market - along roads solid bench, respectively, a lot of buyers. But all - men! Women sit at home, and if necessary go to the store, then accompanied by her husband. If you suddenly happen to meet a woman one on the road (usually in rural areas), it stops, denser covers his face and turns away, waiting to get through.

25. Women with constantly open faces go only in certain parts of the country. In European stock head a thought: "something is wrong". Of course, everything is clear, Islam, veil, hijab, etc. Yet, still ... I wonder what the men themselves, the Pakistanis purely mental? After all, the average Pakistani, his entire adult life sees very few female faces (my wife does not count, you would have remembered his mother!). And women? Open face female sex experiencing the effects of tens and even hundreds of men's attitudes. And if the head is open all ... It would be good to learn from psychologists, such as one-sided here contributes to social tension. Incidentally, an interesting fact: in Pakistan banned a whole bunch of online resources, but access to porn sites not blocked. Anticipating concealed grins - not checked myself :)

*** Change money (me: "You are a very good man!" Damn, still have so much currency trade off!), Go further. The settlements are getting poorer, the road is worse, the mountains - above. Way is through Kohistan, then on the border with the Free Kashmir and later in Kashmir, the so-called Northern Territories. From the outset, our constant companion - the ubiquitous gray dust, which is almost everywhere. She lost in the mountains or near rivers, and even then, depending on the terrain, and in some places reaches a density and thickness, that the feet are immersed both in water up to his ankles.

26. Seller of corn in the dust of the road. On the background we see a woman (with her husband and child).

*** The next strange feeling - many Pakistanis have nothing to do. Often in towns, villages and even beyond settlements encountered such a picture: sit five or six men on the roadside in the dust or on the rocks and just consider the passing cars, scratching his beard. How did they come here? What to do when on the street wild heat, and to the nearest village for at least several kilometers away? They have with them no bags, no food or drink. One gets the feeling that all waiting for something. In the mountain villages there is no such - there inhabitants of both sexes injected into fields, such as Pope Carlo. Third, a strange feeling - it is impossible to understand the attitude of Pakistanis. With Ksyusha useless - it all guys look at you before pain in his eyes, and problems with thinking there is no guessing. Same with me who obligingly polite, who are wary sidelong looking towards those who, by contrast, tends to come to shake hands and say "Hello". Recently out of curiosity, as many other words besides "hello" and do not know. Understand the relationship does not work, and this can not relax.

27. Street town in the foothills. Find at least one woman. And then you go down the road, then more often on the road, and you think, why so why, but on what occasion ... Pakistan, as the country appeared only 63 years ago, when the British liberated India, dividing it into two Dominion: the actual and India Pakistan, its existence indebted to several people. In 1930 some of the Muslim intellectuals expressed the idea that it would be nice to Indian Muslims have lived in their own State. Called and regions of British India with a predominantly Muslim population. This Punjab (Punjab), Kashmir, Sindh, North-West Frontier Province, Baluchistan and Bengal. Of the first six and there was an abbreviation "Pakistan" (the word artificial, but with the meaning: "packs" in Urdu means "pure", that is, Pakistan is literally "pure country"), these areas in 1947 to form West Pakistan, and Bengal became Eastern Province. East and West Pakistan were separated by more than one and a half thousand kilometers of Indian territory, the communication between them is possible either by air or by sea. By land - too problematic due to poor relations with India. Subsequently, as a result of war with India and the national liberation movement (one of the reasons - Bengalis did not want to speak in Urdu), Bengal became a sovereign state under the name "Country Bengal or Bangladesh. But that was then, as initially expressed in the 1930's would have thought so, and hung in the air, if not one person who called in Pakistan Quaid-e-Azam - the father of the nation. This is Mohammed Ali Jinnah (the surname emphasis on the last syllable). Find a portrait of the father of the nation is easy - either because of an overabundance of patriotism, or because of lack of imagination of designers image of Jinnah is present in all denominations.

28. For example, one hundred and Pakistani rupees. Due to the political instinct, desire and will of the man Muslims of India have their own state. And it's not an exaggeration. The fact that the b of the majority of Indian Muslims did not think at all about the creation of the state. For them, the whole of India was the motherland. In addition, the scholars - theologians, under whose influence was much of the Muslim population, have adopted a number of doctrines Middle Ages, blindly believe in them and were in a flock. One of the lords of these dogmas - Pan-Islamism. In other words, according to the ulema, Islam has spread throughout the world, and in any case it can not be locked into the framework of one state. So the idea of ​​Jinnah to establish a Muslim state was met with hostility at all levels - to the creation of Pakistan were the British, who once joined to India about 600 principalities, against were the Indians were actually against the Muslims, except for a small intelligentsia. About how Jinnah virtually single-handedly managed to convince the third and first and second beat politically, written entire books uncle was a brilliant politician. Unfortunately, a year after the formation of the country he died, his successor and follower was killed, and Pakistan, Gina was conceived solely as a democratic state, uncontrollably began to turn into an Islamic republic with Islam that is very hard to its manifestation. In this case, the fundamentalists have made of Jinnah's icon and chose to forget that the father of the nation ate pork, drank alcohol, had shaved his beard, and avoided going to the mosque, and barely knew a few phrases in Urdu. I say, there a political opponent of Father of the Nation Mahatma Gandhi memorized a lot more sayings from the Koran!

29. Father of Pakistan. In fact, Muhammad Ali Jinnah has released the genie from the bottle: radical Islamists have finally figured out how to live well in their individual states, stopped in mockery of the father of the nation called on the country-Pakistan (literally "country unclean") began to break into the government, and Democrats have nothing could not help it. If Jinnah, who had enormous authority among Muslims in India, lived for several years, the country might have gone for democratic development, but ... After the death of Jinnah and his followers followed the political mess, crop failure, civil unrest - and the army came to power. Subsequently, and went: the dictatorship was replaced by a period of democracy when its head raised, including Islamism, and again at the helm of becoming the next general overrides the constitution and banning political freedoms. Democracy came to an end, but the Islamists had hard times. It turns out that the army should play a consolidating role - under the Democrats, some areas of Pakistan started to think about autonomy (Balochistan still wants to become a separate state, and the Pashtuns in the North-West Frontier Province, they want their own state Pashtunistan), and a military separatism quickly negate . All is good, but after a few decades, after a coup led by the state rose Mohammed Zia ul-Haq, the dictator, banned all political and other freedoms and make Pakistan a fully Islamic country with Islamic political party.

30. Zia-ul-Haq. Photo found on the web. This is a Sharia instead of the constitution, public floggings and hangings, the reduction of women to household items (eg, the appearance in public without a veil officially considered a crime, the court testimony of two women were equated with the testimony of one man), etc. It was during the reign of Zia-ul-Haq, the number of madrassas in Pakistan increased by an order of emphasis they placed on educating students in the tradition of radical Islam. It is in these madrassas the Taliban were trained future, it is through Pakistan U.S. supplied weapons to neighboring Afghanistan to fight Soviet aggression in Pakistan to pump U.S. money, and because the dictatorial regime of Zia-ul-Haq bloomed to full flower - Washington DC, and, consequently, all the rest the international community turned a blind eye to all the main beat the Soviet Union. Eyes closed, even on the development of Islamabad's nuclear weapons. (The legacy of Soviet-American arms supplies to the region there is still: a lot of time had seen military outpost, where half the soldiers of the American M-16, while the other half with Kalashnikovs.) All this "happiness" ended recently - that is nuts too twisted dictator, or the political situation in the world began to change, but in 1988, a plane which flew Zia ul-Haq in the clear sky and good weather, suddenly collapsed. Prayer does not help that the dictator made before departure, and the death was grim - a flying airplane after maintenance seen as a presidential jet suddenly started a "peck" nose down, then turn up it up. It lasted about five minutes ...

31. The plane was American and the military, the black boxes on it for some reason there was no US-Pakistani commission to investigate the causes of the disaster quickly turned their work. Vaguely reported that the cause was technical failure, but several facts indicate that there was a diversion. Hitherto unknown to any customers or performers, who, together with Ziya "dropped" in the same plane and the U.S. Ambassador to Pakistan, Brigadier General U.S. Army. The remains of Zia-ul-Haq were buried in a mausoleum in the Faisal Mosque.

*** Gradually climb higher and higher into the mountains, and plenty of machines with different decorations coming to an end ...

32. ... Though they will later meet from time to time, this would seem a holiday on a dusty road monophonic. Instead of cars appears quite different.

33. This is another bleating from time to time completely overlaps the road, which all continued to deteriorate - asphalt somewhere disappears.

34. Sheep are generally labeled

35. ... The next moment in the windscreen of our car should be a powerful blow, sitting in front of the driver and tour guide scream and cover her face arms and around the cabin flying debris ...

*** At this time we have completely left the valley area and drove through the foothills, is, as a rule, large, seem to loose loess hills, the road becomes more difficult and dangerous, and was then one, then on the other side of the hills along the rivers, and sometimes at high altitude over the cliffs. In some places the path ran through a huge powerful debris, and near one of this had to stop. Since turning off the engine came almost complete silence - stood in front of several cars are also no signs of life, and people around them, with his head, looked up to where over the slope in some places the dust hung. From time to time came the roar of the rolling stones. - Rockfall - said Samandar Khan - will have to wait. We got out and joined the group vverhsmotryaschih. Suddenly one of them pointed his finger forward. The stones (the road through the talus is not asphalt, it is compacted by bulldozers stones) on which to twenty km / h acceleration, on the other side scree raced minivan. Speed ​​it for this site was prohibitive - could be seen shaking and vibrating wheels on the cobbles, and how hurled passengers on the seats. The driver had to skip class - a car swerved over and over again and threatened to throw something up on the slope, and then she would probably capsized, then throw off a cliff. However, the driver managed, and on this side, we met his adoring cheers. A few minutes later the movement of stones on the hillside was quiet, and we decided to go - slowly and carefully. Slowly and carefully continued until half way, and then flying on top talus boulder the size of a good fist hit the windshield. Boulder fell across the path of movement of the machine, and therefore, crashing into the glass on a tangent, fly farther. Take the car a few inches forward, the stone would get inside the passenger compartment side and killed the driver, and Samandar Khan bargain. We drove to another little faster, we caught the rock with Ksyusha. Despite the shear motion, shock was very strong - a crash like a cannon. Glass withstood only because it had a collision on the edge - the place where it ends and begins the glass frame. Nevertheless, the fragments were scattered around the cabin. The first reaction of the driver had his foot on the brakes. Samandar Khan, on the contrary the person who now sported a dent with cracks, being in a state of shock, he opened the door and walked out of the car. At this point, once again heard the roar of the stones. - Back off! - Shouted the driver. He shouted it in Urdu, but somehow we got it without an interpreter. Samandar vprygnul in the cabin, and at the same instant car jerked away. We ran over the embankment at a speed of 80 kilometers per hour, cutting off the record with a vengeance minivan. They stopped and went, and we are immediately surrounded by local, exclaiming in surprise and condolences.

36. He was a good stone. In the background, guess happy face Ksyusha.

37. That is the talus, the view from the back side. Over the slope is still hanging dust. I pulled out of a backpack the foresight to tape captured, and under the attentive gaze gathered, we pasted over with the driver of the crack, since any shake-up of them continued to pour in the fragments. Another twenty minutes it took to collect debris from the seat.

38. Our driver in a moment of relaxation on a cliff over a river. Looks like a rook.

*** The machine would drop all of the above - had to climb to the pass Babusar (4600 meters) and come down to the arid Indus Valley. Through this pass during one attempt to climb Nanga Parbat, held the greatest mountaineers Reinhold Messner.

39. The higher the climb, the more lifeless hills and the poorer countryside. Under the field can only use the slopes, and in some places they go terraces in Nepal.

40. Emptiness and absence of vegetation are striking. Feeling that this place is not for life in general.

41. View of the neighborhood with one of the passes. And yet people somehow wrested a living space. For some it is - the birthplace, which he had anything else do not give up.

42. It seems to be wrinkles in the middle of the hill.

43. For someone in those wrinkles whole life. Tiers and the field house.

44. However, on the other side of the pass, too easy. Snow falls less, because the territory of which lie directly behind the Nanga Parbat, located in the so-called rain shadow region and therefore in the Indus valley and surrounding mountains, a drought that can only settle along the river banks, or skiff. But all that we had their own painful experience, but for now we're closer to the pass Babusar selected, move quickly through that was worth until it is altitude sickness.

45. Mountain Lake.

46. Closer to the pass there are snowed 5-army. They do not have names, many untouched by human hands.

47. Near the saddle Babusar. Mountain, Azad Kashmir. To be continued ...

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