[kl-bogel] Unfamiliar Tibet
Tibetan journey begins long before crossing the Chinese border, in recognition of the strength and unwavering power of the bureaucratic machinery of the state, built on the principles of Marxism-Leninism-Maoism and other isms. Virtually impossible, subject to the laws of the country, traveling to Tibet independently. You are doomed to collaborate with tourism industry in Tibet, bringing the way up to 60% of revenue in the budget of the region.
1. You can move only organized group of at least 5 people, with a local guide (who are lucky - Tibetan). Yes, there are options to get to "fence" in Tibet, a phony resolution to visit, and certainly it will be much cheaper. But are we going to these places for emotional comfort, not a tremor in his knees in front of each checkpoint, which I have counted it a 6, or 9 for the whole route, where very carefully examine your documents.
3.Gory and puddles
5.C tours lucky, but the degree of luck was not 100% Noah. Tibetan - is a plus. Despite the youth, experience - a plus. English-speaking - plus, but his English is ... When the word "statue" and "schedule" and the "cave" and "coffee" sound the same, the explosion of the brain rescues only headgear on the long-suffering head!
Mortar and horns. Somewhere in Tibet
6.Chem not tourists!?
7.Vo during our journey, we encounter a problem which has not escaped anyone. Her name - mountain sickness. From it can not escape, no escape, do not pay off. It can only be experienced. Any pills do not surpass the chief doctor - time. Your body itself must adapt to high altitude. The height of his beret, and fell from the sky by an airplane once in 3,700 meters above sea level (Lhasa, capital of Tibet), feel it with your whole body. Week - 10 days living with her and someone else a headache.
8.Svela my fate with interesting people of different ages (25 to 63let). Unites us all yearning for adventure and mountain tourism. In the love of the mountains, the age was not a hindrance. Previous "mountain experience" has been largely beneficial, but left all equal in front of mountain sickness. He ached.
Samye Monastery. Kamenyuki-altar
9.Same, prayer hall
10.Same kettle on the solar battery
12.Za last month in the journey we are "clocked" a few thousand miles on old, but bodrenkih "Cruiser". Feet, too, had to work a lot.
Samye, black mortar
13.Stupa and Glacier
14.Tyaga to nomadic life involves some discomfort. In our case, it comes gradually. As the distance from the capital city of Lhasa, where it dissolved away and the signs of civilization. Gradually disappearing Internet, hot tap water, electricity and a warm toilet. They were replaced by candles, earthen floor guest house, a warm sleeping bag, gas burners and freeze-dried products. Unchanged was only China Mobile, up to the base camp of Mount Everest pipe worked!
15.C starve die in Tibet is difficult. Firstly, due to the domination of Chinese restaurateurs, offers everything your heart desires, BUT! Chinese only. Therefore it is necessary to poke a finger at a neighbor's plate, saying, I want the same, or a picture in the menu (if any). Tibetan cuisine in the highlands can not boast diversity, this variation of yak meat with noodles and rice, spiced with stunted vegetation. All this is prepared on the stove, which fueled dried yak dung.
16.Voobsche, the fuel problem is acute in Tibet, and it smells bad. Heating homes and cooking food, how many centuries ago, produced by burning dried dung yachego. What do gas imported, no firewood.
17.Platit account for everything: for input, for the right to take photographs. And, it's that for taking photographs in each room to be paid separately.
20.Otnoshenie to death in a kind of Tibetans. One celestial burial ceremony which is worth. This is when the deceased dismembered and fed to the birds. Probably, the basis of this yet is the lack of fuel needed for the cremation and rocky soils, poor for burial. But still, how romantic!
Ritual bowl made of the cranial box. Souvenirs
21.Do Tibetans still paint on the rocks of a stairway to heaven, in order to ease the path of the souls of the dead.
Upon arrival in Tibet, sincerely touched by seeing the first Buddhist monk, visiting the first monastery to hear about the unique wall paintings, unique to this site, assessing the quality of wood carving in the manufacture of statues of Buddha. But then you meet thousandth monk, visiting one hundred and first monastery, and all the enthusiasm fade.
22.V Drepung monastery monks regularly hosts debates, ie, theoretical knowledge are translated and tested in actual "combat" conditions, with the real "enemy", which act as colleagues. One monk with a zeal and fervor trying to prove or disprove a thesis or a group of other monks, or one on one. End of question / answer is usually accompanied by clap their hands, grimaces, grimaces, different intonations and tone of voice. In turn they go all the possibilities facial expression.
The dancer would envy those parameters that are thrown out the monks. And all this is multiplied by the stock of parties (and they sometimes have up to hundreds of 1,5-2), creates an atmosphere of a wild mix: market, political rally, circus, and Buddha knows what else! This is a show! Shaw, who envy of performers, though they have different goals.
Gond. Milk Buddha (as the offerings of the parishioners hauled bags of milk)
23.Monastyr Drepung. Prayer
24.Monastyr Gonda. Prayer
25.Monastyr Drepung. Debate
26.Monastyr Drepung. Debate
27.Monastyr Drepung. Debate
28.Monastyr Drepung. Debate
29.Monastyr Drepung. Debate
31. Saints Arhats-firefighters.
We went farther and farther to the west of Lhasa, moving not only horizontally but also vertically. Each typed a hundred yards up a small victory was ours, until they reached a large, whose name - Everest.
Say we climbed Everest, then cheat. We were there. But the rise in 8848, no money, no health is probably not enough. We climbed a little higher than base camp, and it is only some 5 200m. Three miles was not enough to crown Nevertheless - impressed! This - MOUNTAIN!
32.Kozly against the backdrop of Mount Everest. Guess what stove is fired at an altitude of 5200m? And that's not guessed! And not yachim and feta dried manure. Altitude, cold, headache, intoxication by the glow of shit done their dirty deed. In the morning we looked worse than the feel. Our housing was called «Snowland Hotel»! People who spent the night in similar conditions, but under the name «Hotel California» a few dozen meters away, looked no better.
33.Doroga to Everest. The guide-native said that we are lucky, this type of Everest others wait for months. And thanks for that! GORA, yaks, mountains, dark birds, wild mountain sheep are not frightened, biting wind, ice water and an old monastery with a strange name "For Rumbok.
34.Doroga to Everest. Forgotten village, or castle, or temple, or monastery ...
35. The road to Everest
37. The goat is not scary
38. The monks go to the restoration of the monastery against the backdrop of the Base Camp
40.Monastyr titled "For Rumbok"
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